“What’ll Ya Have?” The Varsity has been an Atlanta tradition since 1928. We had to stop by and check out this establishment. We needed to find out why they have not only been able to keep the doors open but have the ability to attract so many people, there is a line out the door.
It was started by Frank Gordy and is still run by the Gordy family. There are currently seven locations in the Atlanta and Athens area, but two of those are in the airport. We visited the Varsity Atlanta at 61 North Avenue, Atlanta Georgia 30308.
It is the largest fast-food building on record and is covered in colorful red and yellow tile and panels. This decor is reminiscent of a high school or college building built during the turn of the last century. All the modern style the rocketed a post war economy. You walk in under the large marquee sign into a long wide hallway leading up to the longest counter I have ever come across. We were able to step right up and order because we had beat the noon time crowd. Actually, we were a little confused when we entered and noticed that every register was manned and the traffic was minimum. That was quickly explained while we waited for our food and watched as the crowds swelled as well as the lines through the long and wide hallway.
Of course we had no idea what or how to order and with a family of five we aren’t always making quick decisions. The staff there was some what patient but not impressed with our lack of knowledge of the menu. There is an insiders menu, but that just makes things more complicated for our family. We like to keep it simple. The less choices you have to present to kids the better chances of getting out with out a melt down.
We had hot dogs, hamburgers, onion rings, fries and to finish off a peach pie. The food is a throw back to when the fast food industry was being established. The chili is all ground beef, stewing in its own grease and no beans. It is an old classic chili without much added. Leaving you to choose your condiments. Mustard is the expectation for your condiment. The hamburgers are smushed and cooked through. You need to ask for the lettuce and tomatoes. We forgot. The French fries are cut from whole potatoes and crispy to mushy. The onion rings are dipped in a beer or tempura type batter so they crust is thicker than you find at other restaurants. They are good when they are hot, but that is true of all onion rings. This is the food your grandparents ate before modern sensibilities came about in the eighties and everyone started worrying about heart disease. The peach pie is a pocket of dough, empanada style, with hot filling. Its crust ins’t fancy and the filling isn’t overly sweet. It tis more on the reserved side, but what I would expect from a restaurant from this era.
We found a table that was located in the walkway that connects the main building to the parking garage. Yes, this restaurant has its own parking garage. The kids enjoyed the view of Atlanta and watching the cars pass under neath. It was quieter up here, but the temperature is less controlled. It was a cold day, so the wind would blow on us when the door opened.
The Varsity is an experience and I have to admit it isn’t my favorite type of food. My kids loved their hot dogs and hamburgers. It was a little heavy on the grease for me and it is definitely created for a certain palate. We will probably visit again when we get to Atlanta, but that is because the kids will be asking for it.
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